Day 15- Moab Sovereign and Fruita Kessler Trails

I woke up early and very cold so packed and hit the rest of my scenic route. Yes it was a long slow drive but boy was it scenic (as you can see from the video. Eventually though I started dropping off at the wheel. So arriving at Moab just in time to wake me up was good news!

I took the dirt road up to the Sovereign trail- this one was not even on the map last time I was here (3 years ago). I nearly got the car stuck on the 4WD road but stopped and pedalled to the trailhead.

The trail was lots of slickrock ledges and even more interesting than the slickrock trail. Following the blue arrows and up some huge switchback climb with real exposed drops that you must not put a wheel/foot/pedal wrong on!

At 6.4 miles the trail turned around and headed generally down and back- so it was great fun skipping over the slickrock ledges and being oh so gentle on the brakes down the exposed loose switchback descent that was marked with a Red diamond and the words “Extremely Difficult” (not just a black diamond trail then!

Before I knew it I was back in the car and refreshed on the road to Fruita. There I shopped for some dinner then did a tourist bit around Dinosaur Hill. Where in 1901 a Guy called Elmer Rigg discovered a full dinosaur skeleton Apatosaurus that is now exhibited in Chicago Field Museum!

I even saw a rock with a mould of a Diplodocus femur.  (see pic below- that dark rock dent)

Amazing to be walking where Dinosaurs once roamed!

I headed out to Book Cliffs to camp and it was such a great evening and my legs were still fresh so I took a fantastic fast run down the swoopy Kessler run singletrack- wow I love that trail so so fast and constantly throwing your bike from one side to the other. It took 10 mins down and 30 mins to climb back up Prime Cut to my tent.

Tonight I built my last campfire and stood where some bikers had clearly built a ramp to ride and jump over the fire. Once the sun had set and fire died out I retired to my tent – it was so hot- no sleeping bag needed tonight.

Day 14- Thunder storms on Thunder Mountain, Red Canyon

So Chuck recommended I take the scenic byway back towards Moab and ride Thunder mountain today. This meant doing something partially unplanned e.g. where will I sleep tonight?! It was a 124 mile trip to the trailhead and I grabbed a trail map from the Red Canyon visitor centre on US-12, set amongst the hoodoos and arches.

I pedalled out on 5 miles of paved cycle lane then up a couple of miles on dirt track, reaching the singletrack just as the storm approached and the hail started. Luckily it was not too bad but the whole trail lived up to its name as I encountered Thunder for the whole way but not too much rain/hail.

It was an incredible ride, rolling red rock singletrack through sparse trees, mainly dead or burnt out, fast and flowy with some techy stuff for a challenge and making it a blue run so far. Then the views of the hoodoo rock formations opened up and I got close enough to touch some rocks that are precariously balanced.

As the descent started things turned from blue to black difficulty, a climb through the hoodoos and across a very thin fin ridge with sheer drops either side. As if that was not scary enough (espesh riding alone) the next section was tight steep swicthbacks on narrow ledges with sheer drops of 100's of feet into the canyon (no pics of that as I was gripping on for dear life). Eventually spitting me out onto a fast swoopy flowy singletrack for a mile back to the trail head.

Wow (yes another wow)- Chuck really knew what sort of riding to recommend me that was perfectly my style of riding. Great great ride.

From there I became a tourist and drove Highway 12 the scenic byway through Bryce, Escalante, Boulder, with incredible views of these weird and wonderful rock formations. I stopped off at 7pm at Oak Creek Campground in pouring rain and am camping almost alone next to a creek which is babbling in the background as I write.

No plans for tomorrow but to drive and see what I feel like doing when I get wherever. (Now that is sooo unlike me! But good!)

Day 13- Rainbow Rim Trail Locust Point to Timp point

Egg McChuckins this morning and decamp for the last time. An out and back ride on the cards with a challenge thrown in for me. We had just 3 hours to ride out and back- go as far as you want but the furthest is Timp point 9 miles away. Well I wasn't going to leave any inch of the Rainbow Rim Trail unridden so today I can't wait for anyone – and everyone understood that.

I raced out at full speed and never looked back- determined to reach Timp point. The singletrack was amazing, so fast and narrow mainly rolling through woods and occasionally touching the rim and throwing those views that you must not look at for fear of going over the edge “watch the trail Claire”. I stopped briefly at North Timp point (6 mile point in 40 mins) for a photo then sprinted on.


I stopped again to take a photo of the North Kaibab Squirrel I saw, with it's white bushy tail and very long pointed ears (apparently evolved differently from the Albert squirrel on the south rim due to their separation by a Grand Canyon event a long time ago). 

Back on the pedals and soon I was at Timp point- yeehaa I'd made it and only 1 hr and 5 mins- wow! I took in the view and waited for Andy and Julian. Eventually I bumped into Andy but Julian could not be found although he'd arrived before Andy- so we shouted and searched but decided we had to have an A-team photo without our eldest member as he must have headed back and so should we.

At North Timp point we met Chuck checking us all back but he head not seen Julian either. We carried on and Chuck went out to find him. As we sprinted to try and catch Team B we found Don forlornly sitting on a log with a locust bush puncture and no pump. So we quickly patched his tube and pumped him up then sprinted off again.

The last rocky climb was a killer and I had to walk a section- my lungs and legs burning. Finally Andy and I sprinted round a corner full pelt into team B standing on the trail. We just stopped in time and we all rode back into camp together.

Challenges achieved, a great workout and some sweet sweet singletrack riding. Ahhhh!

Now the horrid 3hr truck ride back to St.George, stiffening our legs and sorrowing us that it's all over!

T-shirts distributed, emails swapped, hugs goodbye and an Edward Abbey poem recited by Chuck that I really must get- great sentiments indeed.

In a motel for the night I had the worst night sleep I've had yet- perhaps I miss my tent, but I did manage to do all my laundry, repack bags and recharge batteries. Plus I had the first shower I've had for 5 days! Wow that bath tub looked grubby after I left! Here's what I look like clean- I'm sure none of the guests would recognise me without a cap or helmet covering greasy hair!

Day 12 - Rainbow Rim Trail Locust Point to Parasawampitts

Blueberry Pancakes for breakfast – I had 3! By 9am we were on our bikes heading west on the trail that skirts the rim (called Rainbow rim Trail) and then heads inland through meadows before popping back out to the rim. I kept stopping to keep the group together and take photos, but after a while Johnny told us to get a move on to the lunch stop if we wanted to ride back before the now customary afternoon storm. So we did. I arrived at Parisawampitss (pair of sweaty armpits) with Andy and Julian on my tail just as it started to rain so we grabbed a chicken salad wrap and jumped in the van.

One by one we all climbed aboard until we were only waiting for Talahassi Dan and Johnny stuck out on the trail getting soaked. But eventually they too arrived- rather bedraggled but still smiling!

We were all set not to ride back and just take the van as it was so wet and cold but Julian laid down the challenge that he knew I cannot turn down and so we braved the wet. Just as we set off the sun came out and soon we stripped off our waterproofs, but we were racing the rain. In the A team was me, Andy and Julian and we did not stop until Fence Point 6 miles of solid rolling singletrack later. It only took us 1 hr 15 mins to get back the full 9 miles but boy we were motoring!

The B team also braved it- Dan, Vicki, Bruce, Sandy, Eileen and arrived a short while after us and about 1 minute before the storm hit and everyone crawled into their tents to stay warm and sit it out. Just Julian and I sitting wrapped up in the centre spot of the big red gazebo!

Then the sun shone all night for dinner, Sandy served up Gin and Tonics and we had the guitar out with Johnny, Dan and Sandy strumming and singing all manner of tunes I'd never heard- and Chuck throwing in some interesting ditty's too around the campfire. Vicki and Dan even got up and boogied! We drank up all the beer around a meal of Turkey Lasagne and an awesome carrot cake- yup you got it freshly baked in a Dutch oven-mmm mmm mmm! Such a chilled out night- these are moments you have to cherish, an exhausted body, great food, great companions, awesome views a campfire under the stars and some chilled out live music!

Day 11- Grand Canyon Hike

Today we decamped and drove into Grand Canyon National Park ready to hike down into the canyon on the North Kaibab trail. We hiked down 1000ft through the top layers of Kaibab, Coconino, and Supai and hardly made a dent in the total descent. We met some hikers who had come from the South Rim 12 miles across the canyon. Now that trip has gone on my “Bucket list”!

The views were awesome and the change in temp amazing as it got hotter as we descended and then the afternoon storm arrived as we hiked back up.

Next we did the tourist bit and visited the Grand Canyon Lodge for even more awesome views of the North Rim of the canyon. What an amazing log and stone lodge too. I read all about the various layers dating back almost 2 billion years of rock. Apparently we can see the layers as the whole plateau was raised up when the pacific and N.American tectonic plates collided (also forming the rockies) and the ground rose up almost evenly everywhere- eventually the Grand River (now named the Colorado River) flowed through and eroded much of it away. The river was a lot bigger after the ice age than it is today hence the huge canyons and rims which range from some 8 miles to 12 miles apart I believe. Read more knowledgeable people explaining this here.

At 3pm we worked our way down a 24 mile dirt track towards our next camp, just as we were about to leave the van and ride a hail storm started so a 14 mile dirt road ride in hail did not sound attractive. Instead we had a bouncy 4x4 drive experience in the van courtesy of Chuck.

Tonights campsite was stunning once again and so remote. We are right on the Rainbow rim trail at Locust point with views of Amphitheater Tampeats canyons forever and ever to see. I pitched my tent double quick and now the sun was out I rode off on my bike on the Rainbow Rim trail towards Fence point.

Sweet sweet singletrack rolling and stony with one log jam which I stopped and built up until it was rideable. I could not stop myself so went beyond Fence Point for about a half mile until the familiar whooshing steam train of the impending storm warned me that it was time to don my waterproof and head back. I sprinted to outrun it and as I rounded the corner to Locust Point bumped into Bruce and Sandy taking photos of the views.

Our delicious campfire meal was Stir fry chicken with loads of fresh veg followed by freshly baked (in the Dutch Oven) Peach cake- yum! So spoilt!

As if now a part of a familiar routine we again sat like a theatre audience and watched the light show of the canyon as the sun gradually set in a perfect fiery orange globe, just how you dream of sunsets! I'm sure Bruce has the killer photo of it that I will share when he's done editing.

Day 10 - Arizona Trail, East Rim Grand Canyon

The sun woke me early after a great night's sleep so by 06:30 I was walking around the campsite bathing in the sun, albeit in an insulated jacket! Chuck and John were busy cooking up a fantastic breakfast spread. French Toast- my favourite!

By 9am we were on our bikes at the Trailhead of the Arizona Trail- an out and back today with a potential 30 miles if we make it. It was singletrack all the way and rolling along but the altitude here was still taking its toll on lungs. After 2 miles we had a stony steep switchback descent which put a big grin on my face (although I was already fearing climbing it on the return leg).

We rolled on through meadows surrounded by Ponderosa and Aspen trees and I took the front position again with Julian hot on my heals (chased by a 68 year old- he's amazing!). We had a great descent down another swicthback trail and ducked under a fallen Aspen, I just clipped it with my camelback even though my backside was on my rear wheel. But apparently Vicki got hooked by her Camelbak and was suspended in the air until someone rescued her!

At the bottom we lunched in “The Pleasant Little Meadow” and indeed it was true to its name. But the Sun disappeared behind big black clouds and it all turned cold again. Fearing a hail storm the Guides advised we head home and just do this 18 mile loop and not go for the 30. I had to battle with myself and go along with it.

On the return leg we just kept on motoring as the storm was chasing us. I stopped at the bottom of the big climb and refueled with a Powerbar Berry Blast and 500ml of Gatorade, then went for it. It was a killer but I made it round all but one switchback- stopping a few times between them to catch my heart and put it back in my chest. This air is so thin my HR is hitting its max!

The guides outclimbed me but behind me 8 weary pairs of legs hiked on up but as Andy truthfully claimed - he only got off his bike once on the way up- less than me!

We arrived back at camp just in the nick of time as the hail storm started. (Dan already sheltering from it under the great big red umbrella). How right those guides were to turn us back. Jim gave us all a little scare, having turned back early and not yet arrived back at camp. (Apparently he was sheltering in a Latrine from the hail after negotiating some mudholes on the 611). Soon he turned up and we all 11 huddled under the gazebo while Andy tried to keep the campfire going and wood dry and the guides prepped food for dinner inside the trailer.

Eventually the hail subsided and the sun came out, dried us up as we hovered around the fire, watched the movie show called "Many Shades of a Canyon" and ate our awesome dinner- Chicken and Steak Fajitas cooked to perfection followed by succulent fresh baked warm brownies (2 for me)- mmm mmm!  

Day 9- Grand Canyon Here we come

I met up with Western Spirit and my companions for the next 5 days of riding at 7am at the Ambassador Inn in St.George. It was hot already and we were soon sizing one another up and trying to learn names. Chuck and John are our guides and it appears almost everyone else is a repeat client so that bodes well for a good experience to come. One Brit -Andy- to keep me company and we are both the youngest, with a range of ages up to Julian who is 68.

We hit the road for a 3hr journey towards the Grand Canyon only stopping across the border in Arizona to get some REAL beer (not the 3.2% sold in Utah). We headed for Jacobs Lake and set up our bikes for a pootle down a fire track for 8 miles to Lunch with a Thunderstorm threatening already. The inevitable pecking order race got underway as Dan and I hit the front of the pack!

Lunch was a very cold affair as the clouds and wind were upon us and I have no "rainpants" whilst everyone else got dressed up I just jigged about a bit to keep my bare legs warm! So we did not stop long but headed onto the Singletrack of the Arizona Trail for another 9 miles. The gang pushed me out front and fearing a chasing pack I hit the gas.

4 miles in I looked over my shoulder to see empty meadows, I'd left them for dust, so I sat on a log and took pics as they all caught up. For the next section Andy tailed me and Julian was on his heels the A team was forming! Soon we emerged to our first views of the East Rim of The Grand Canyon and my first of many “Wow's” of the trip. Awesome views and sunnier climes.

Chuck met us and led us to our first night's camp right on the Rim overlooking the fantastic Cock's Comb and looking way out to the massive gorge of the Colorado River that forms the Grand Canyon. (Originally it was the Grand River hence Grand Canyon).

A campfire was lit and a great meal served up (Salmon followed by Chocolate Fondue I was in heaven and soon had to admit to my chocoholism- “Chocolatey Claire”) and we all struggled to stay awake until 9pm when the daylight switched off and we retired to tents.

Riders: Claire, Andy, Julian, Dan, Vicki, Sandy, Bruce, Jim, Don, Dan, Eileen.

Guides: John, Chuck