Day 15- Moab Sovereign and Fruita Kessler Trails

I woke up early and very cold so packed and hit the rest of my scenic route. Yes it was a long slow drive but boy was it scenic (as you can see from the video. Eventually though I started dropping off at the wheel. So arriving at Moab just in time to wake me up was good news!

I took the dirt road up to the Sovereign trail- this one was not even on the map last time I was here (3 years ago). I nearly got the car stuck on the 4WD road but stopped and pedalled to the trailhead.

The trail was lots of slickrock ledges and even more interesting than the slickrock trail. Following the blue arrows and up some huge switchback climb with real exposed drops that you must not put a wheel/foot/pedal wrong on!

At 6.4 miles the trail turned around and headed generally down and back- so it was great fun skipping over the slickrock ledges and being oh so gentle on the brakes down the exposed loose switchback descent that was marked with a Red diamond and the words “Extremely Difficult” (not just a black diamond trail then!

Before I knew it I was back in the car and refreshed on the road to Fruita. There I shopped for some dinner then did a tourist bit around Dinosaur Hill. Where in 1901 a Guy called Elmer Rigg discovered a full dinosaur skeleton Apatosaurus that is now exhibited in Chicago Field Museum!

I even saw a rock with a mould of a Diplodocus femur.  (see pic below- that dark rock dent)

Amazing to be walking where Dinosaurs once roamed!

I headed out to Book Cliffs to camp and it was such a great evening and my legs were still fresh so I took a fantastic fast run down the swoopy Kessler run singletrack- wow I love that trail so so fast and constantly throwing your bike from one side to the other. It took 10 mins down and 30 mins to climb back up Prime Cut to my tent.

Tonight I built my last campfire and stood where some bikers had clearly built a ramp to ride and jump over the fire. Once the sun had set and fire died out I retired to my tent – it was so hot- no sleeping bag needed tonight.

Day 14- Thunder storms on Thunder Mountain, Red Canyon

So Chuck recommended I take the scenic byway back towards Moab and ride Thunder mountain today. This meant doing something partially unplanned e.g. where will I sleep tonight?! It was a 124 mile trip to the trailhead and I grabbed a trail map from the Red Canyon visitor centre on US-12, set amongst the hoodoos and arches.

I pedalled out on 5 miles of paved cycle lane then up a couple of miles on dirt track, reaching the singletrack just as the storm approached and the hail started. Luckily it was not too bad but the whole trail lived up to its name as I encountered Thunder for the whole way but not too much rain/hail.

It was an incredible ride, rolling red rock singletrack through sparse trees, mainly dead or burnt out, fast and flowy with some techy stuff for a challenge and making it a blue run so far. Then the views of the hoodoo rock formations opened up and I got close enough to touch some rocks that are precariously balanced.

As the descent started things turned from blue to black difficulty, a climb through the hoodoos and across a very thin fin ridge with sheer drops either side. As if that was not scary enough (espesh riding alone) the next section was tight steep swicthbacks on narrow ledges with sheer drops of 100's of feet into the canyon (no pics of that as I was gripping on for dear life). Eventually spitting me out onto a fast swoopy flowy singletrack for a mile back to the trail head.

Wow (yes another wow)- Chuck really knew what sort of riding to recommend me that was perfectly my style of riding. Great great ride.

From there I became a tourist and drove Highway 12 the scenic byway through Bryce, Escalante, Boulder, with incredible views of these weird and wonderful rock formations. I stopped off at 7pm at Oak Creek Campground in pouring rain and am camping almost alone next to a creek which is babbling in the background as I write.

No plans for tomorrow but to drive and see what I feel like doing when I get wherever. (Now that is sooo unlike me! But good!)

Day 13- Rainbow Rim Trail Locust Point to Timp point

Egg McChuckins this morning and decamp for the last time. An out and back ride on the cards with a challenge thrown in for me. We had just 3 hours to ride out and back- go as far as you want but the furthest is Timp point 9 miles away. Well I wasn't going to leave any inch of the Rainbow Rim Trail unridden so today I can't wait for anyone – and everyone understood that.

I raced out at full speed and never looked back- determined to reach Timp point. The singletrack was amazing, so fast and narrow mainly rolling through woods and occasionally touching the rim and throwing those views that you must not look at for fear of going over the edge “watch the trail Claire”. I stopped briefly at North Timp point (6 mile point in 40 mins) for a photo then sprinted on.


I stopped again to take a photo of the North Kaibab Squirrel I saw, with it's white bushy tail and very long pointed ears (apparently evolved differently from the Albert squirrel on the south rim due to their separation by a Grand Canyon event a long time ago). 

Back on the pedals and soon I was at Timp point- yeehaa I'd made it and only 1 hr and 5 mins- wow! I took in the view and waited for Andy and Julian. Eventually I bumped into Andy but Julian could not be found although he'd arrived before Andy- so we shouted and searched but decided we had to have an A-team photo without our eldest member as he must have headed back and so should we.

At North Timp point we met Chuck checking us all back but he head not seen Julian either. We carried on and Chuck went out to find him. As we sprinted to try and catch Team B we found Don forlornly sitting on a log with a locust bush puncture and no pump. So we quickly patched his tube and pumped him up then sprinted off again.

The last rocky climb was a killer and I had to walk a section- my lungs and legs burning. Finally Andy and I sprinted round a corner full pelt into team B standing on the trail. We just stopped in time and we all rode back into camp together.

Challenges achieved, a great workout and some sweet sweet singletrack riding. Ahhhh!

Now the horrid 3hr truck ride back to St.George, stiffening our legs and sorrowing us that it's all over!

T-shirts distributed, emails swapped, hugs goodbye and an Edward Abbey poem recited by Chuck that I really must get- great sentiments indeed.

In a motel for the night I had the worst night sleep I've had yet- perhaps I miss my tent, but I did manage to do all my laundry, repack bags and recharge batteries. Plus I had the first shower I've had for 5 days! Wow that bath tub looked grubby after I left! Here's what I look like clean- I'm sure none of the guests would recognise me without a cap or helmet covering greasy hair!

Day 12 - Rainbow Rim Trail Locust Point to Parasawampitts

Blueberry Pancakes for breakfast – I had 3! By 9am we were on our bikes heading west on the trail that skirts the rim (called Rainbow rim Trail) and then heads inland through meadows before popping back out to the rim. I kept stopping to keep the group together and take photos, but after a while Johnny told us to get a move on to the lunch stop if we wanted to ride back before the now customary afternoon storm. So we did. I arrived at Parisawampitss (pair of sweaty armpits) with Andy and Julian on my tail just as it started to rain so we grabbed a chicken salad wrap and jumped in the van.

One by one we all climbed aboard until we were only waiting for Talahassi Dan and Johnny stuck out on the trail getting soaked. But eventually they too arrived- rather bedraggled but still smiling!

We were all set not to ride back and just take the van as it was so wet and cold but Julian laid down the challenge that he knew I cannot turn down and so we braved the wet. Just as we set off the sun came out and soon we stripped off our waterproofs, but we were racing the rain. In the A team was me, Andy and Julian and we did not stop until Fence Point 6 miles of solid rolling singletrack later. It only took us 1 hr 15 mins to get back the full 9 miles but boy we were motoring!

The B team also braved it- Dan, Vicki, Bruce, Sandy, Eileen and arrived a short while after us and about 1 minute before the storm hit and everyone crawled into their tents to stay warm and sit it out. Just Julian and I sitting wrapped up in the centre spot of the big red gazebo!

Then the sun shone all night for dinner, Sandy served up Gin and Tonics and we had the guitar out with Johnny, Dan and Sandy strumming and singing all manner of tunes I'd never heard- and Chuck throwing in some interesting ditty's too around the campfire. Vicki and Dan even got up and boogied! We drank up all the beer around a meal of Turkey Lasagne and an awesome carrot cake- yup you got it freshly baked in a Dutch oven-mmm mmm mmm! Such a chilled out night- these are moments you have to cherish, an exhausted body, great food, great companions, awesome views a campfire under the stars and some chilled out live music!

Day 11- Grand Canyon Hike

Today we decamped and drove into Grand Canyon National Park ready to hike down into the canyon on the North Kaibab trail. We hiked down 1000ft through the top layers of Kaibab, Coconino, and Supai and hardly made a dent in the total descent. We met some hikers who had come from the South Rim 12 miles across the canyon. Now that trip has gone on my “Bucket list”!

The views were awesome and the change in temp amazing as it got hotter as we descended and then the afternoon storm arrived as we hiked back up.

Next we did the tourist bit and visited the Grand Canyon Lodge for even more awesome views of the North Rim of the canyon. What an amazing log and stone lodge too. I read all about the various layers dating back almost 2 billion years of rock. Apparently we can see the layers as the whole plateau was raised up when the pacific and N.American tectonic plates collided (also forming the rockies) and the ground rose up almost evenly everywhere- eventually the Grand River (now named the Colorado River) flowed through and eroded much of it away. The river was a lot bigger after the ice age than it is today hence the huge canyons and rims which range from some 8 miles to 12 miles apart I believe. Read more knowledgeable people explaining this here.

At 3pm we worked our way down a 24 mile dirt track towards our next camp, just as we were about to leave the van and ride a hail storm started so a 14 mile dirt road ride in hail did not sound attractive. Instead we had a bouncy 4x4 drive experience in the van courtesy of Chuck.

Tonights campsite was stunning once again and so remote. We are right on the Rainbow rim trail at Locust point with views of Amphitheater Tampeats canyons forever and ever to see. I pitched my tent double quick and now the sun was out I rode off on my bike on the Rainbow Rim trail towards Fence point.

Sweet sweet singletrack rolling and stony with one log jam which I stopped and built up until it was rideable. I could not stop myself so went beyond Fence Point for about a half mile until the familiar whooshing steam train of the impending storm warned me that it was time to don my waterproof and head back. I sprinted to outrun it and as I rounded the corner to Locust Point bumped into Bruce and Sandy taking photos of the views.

Our delicious campfire meal was Stir fry chicken with loads of fresh veg followed by freshly baked (in the Dutch Oven) Peach cake- yum! So spoilt!

As if now a part of a familiar routine we again sat like a theatre audience and watched the light show of the canyon as the sun gradually set in a perfect fiery orange globe, just how you dream of sunsets! I'm sure Bruce has the killer photo of it that I will share when he's done editing.

Day 10 - Arizona Trail, East Rim Grand Canyon

The sun woke me early after a great night's sleep so by 06:30 I was walking around the campsite bathing in the sun, albeit in an insulated jacket! Chuck and John were busy cooking up a fantastic breakfast spread. French Toast- my favourite!

By 9am we were on our bikes at the Trailhead of the Arizona Trail- an out and back today with a potential 30 miles if we make it. It was singletrack all the way and rolling along but the altitude here was still taking its toll on lungs. After 2 miles we had a stony steep switchback descent which put a big grin on my face (although I was already fearing climbing it on the return leg).

We rolled on through meadows surrounded by Ponderosa and Aspen trees and I took the front position again with Julian hot on my heals (chased by a 68 year old- he's amazing!). We had a great descent down another swicthback trail and ducked under a fallen Aspen, I just clipped it with my camelback even though my backside was on my rear wheel. But apparently Vicki got hooked by her Camelbak and was suspended in the air until someone rescued her!

At the bottom we lunched in “The Pleasant Little Meadow” and indeed it was true to its name. But the Sun disappeared behind big black clouds and it all turned cold again. Fearing a hail storm the Guides advised we head home and just do this 18 mile loop and not go for the 30. I had to battle with myself and go along with it.

On the return leg we just kept on motoring as the storm was chasing us. I stopped at the bottom of the big climb and refueled with a Powerbar Berry Blast and 500ml of Gatorade, then went for it. It was a killer but I made it round all but one switchback- stopping a few times between them to catch my heart and put it back in my chest. This air is so thin my HR is hitting its max!

The guides outclimbed me but behind me 8 weary pairs of legs hiked on up but as Andy truthfully claimed - he only got off his bike once on the way up- less than me!

We arrived back at camp just in the nick of time as the hail storm started. (Dan already sheltering from it under the great big red umbrella). How right those guides were to turn us back. Jim gave us all a little scare, having turned back early and not yet arrived back at camp. (Apparently he was sheltering in a Latrine from the hail after negotiating some mudholes on the 611). Soon he turned up and we all 11 huddled under the gazebo while Andy tried to keep the campfire going and wood dry and the guides prepped food for dinner inside the trailer.

Eventually the hail subsided and the sun came out, dried us up as we hovered around the fire, watched the movie show called "Many Shades of a Canyon" and ate our awesome dinner- Chicken and Steak Fajitas cooked to perfection followed by succulent fresh baked warm brownies (2 for me)- mmm mmm!  

Day 9- Grand Canyon Here we come

I met up with Western Spirit and my companions for the next 5 days of riding at 7am at the Ambassador Inn in St.George. It was hot already and we were soon sizing one another up and trying to learn names. Chuck and John are our guides and it appears almost everyone else is a repeat client so that bodes well for a good experience to come. One Brit -Andy- to keep me company and we are both the youngest, with a range of ages up to Julian who is 68.

We hit the road for a 3hr journey towards the Grand Canyon only stopping across the border in Arizona to get some REAL beer (not the 3.2% sold in Utah). We headed for Jacobs Lake and set up our bikes for a pootle down a fire track for 8 miles to Lunch with a Thunderstorm threatening already. The inevitable pecking order race got underway as Dan and I hit the front of the pack!

Lunch was a very cold affair as the clouds and wind were upon us and I have no "rainpants" whilst everyone else got dressed up I just jigged about a bit to keep my bare legs warm! So we did not stop long but headed onto the Singletrack of the Arizona Trail for another 9 miles. The gang pushed me out front and fearing a chasing pack I hit the gas.

4 miles in I looked over my shoulder to see empty meadows, I'd left them for dust, so I sat on a log and took pics as they all caught up. For the next section Andy tailed me and Julian was on his heels the A team was forming! Soon we emerged to our first views of the East Rim of The Grand Canyon and my first of many “Wow's” of the trip. Awesome views and sunnier climes.

Chuck met us and led us to our first night's camp right on the Rim overlooking the fantastic Cock's Comb and looking way out to the massive gorge of the Colorado River that forms the Grand Canyon. (Originally it was the Grand River hence Grand Canyon).

A campfire was lit and a great meal served up (Salmon followed by Chocolate Fondue I was in heaven and soon had to admit to my chocoholism- “Chocolatey Claire”) and we all struggled to stay awake until 9pm when the daylight switched off and we retired to tents.

Riders: Claire, Andy, Julian, Dan, Vicki, Sandy, Bruce, Jim, Don, Dan, Eileen.

Guides: John, Chuck

Day 8- On the road again

The big storm last night abated for 2 hrs from 7:30 to 9:30 pm and everyone emerged from tents, rapidly lit their fires and grills and cooked and ate. Me included for the first time I had coal and wood for a campfire dinner. 

Steak skillets in burger buns- pretty basic as I do not have much kit but I managed to light a fire which enabled me to stay in my shorts until bedtime! It was a great sunset- a rainbow started it off and a warm red glow on the rocks ended it before it all went very dark.

It rained all night again but by 6am I had this view from my tent's eye on the world (OK it looked cooler in person!) and I was able to get up and pack the tent before it rained again.

Now I forgot to tell you all how wonderful the toilet facilities are here- truly open plan or should I say open air! Just pull the chain across to let everyone know its occupied and whistle or sing loudly. No need for air freshener as there is no roof and barely a fence for a wall. It still stinks though so do not camp near one!

Hit the road for the 6 hrs trip to St.George on 2 long empty highways and did all the logistics of repacking and refreshing supplies for next week's trip. Its v.hot in St.George so I decided not to venture out for a ride but save my energy for the next 5 thrilling days! Woohoo!

BTW- I just noticed my license plate- not sure if it means the car is sexy or the driver!

Day 7- And on the seventh day she rested

It rained all night last night, I could hear it on my little tent. My back was aching after 5 days in the saddle and sleeping on a thermarest- so this morning I decided to rest up, sleep in and get refreshed for next week.

The campground is now packed as its memorial day weekend. When I say packed, I mean full for US terms and not packed like crammed in as you are in UK. No here you all have a lot of space and although I can hear my neighbours we aren't on top of one another.

1st job this morning- Shower

Showered at teh Moab Cyclery for $5 and unlimited hot water- ooh so great to feel clean again after the layers of insect repellent, sunscreen, sweat and dusty trails.

2nd job- Laundromat

The Wet spot on 100 south- the cleanest, nicest laundromat I've ever used. Just 60mins later and all my kit is clean, smells sweet and dry!

3rd job- Food

Promised myself an American breakfast so had French Toast Tower with bacon and egg (sunny side up) at the Moab diner- yummy.

4th job- Internet

Am hanging in library catching up on email and blog(!) and then gonna read a bit about Moab history

5th job- Supplies

Need petrol, firewood, fix broken glasses(damn!), odor eaters (my bike shoes stink already!), 

6th job- RELAX

Day 6- Moab- Posion Spider, Portal Trail, Bartllett Wash

Last night after a couple of beers Will decided to join me to ride Poison Spider and the Portal trail. Now that was brave given that the tales Ken and Dennis had told me. They said they had to cling to the rock wall on a narrow ledge to stop from falling off a 400ft cliff and that Marne and Marion had made them turn back and ride back down Poison Spider instead.

We rose early after an extremely quiet night and great sleep- heavenly. I was breakfasting on my bench overlooking the La Sal mountains at 06:30, its pretty cloudy today and we could be in for a storm. By 7:30 we were worrying if we had made the right decision as we headed off to the trailhead and climbed on our bikes riding up the trail at 08:20 in a light rain- yeuch!

The climb up Poison Spider was gentler gradient than I expected but the rock ledges to climb up and the sand traps to plough through were energy sapping and I was soon gasping for breath and trying to clear lactic acid from my quads! This went on for 8 miles taking about 2 hours to climb up.

We stopped and climbed down to see Little Arch (a natural rock formation in the sandstone) and realised how far we had climbed as we could see the river below us- from the river to here was around 1000m!

We had a roller coater of slickrock and then we finally reached the rim with great views as the rain had stopped and the sun was back out and baking the rock dry. This was fortunate as the trail description for the next section was full of death and fear- so many times I was told to only ride it if I dare. We soon found the sign telling us 3 mountain bikers have died falling from this narrow ledge down a 400foot cliff drop. Walk do not ride. Don't worry mate we walked that bit.

Then the trail guide said now starts the hard stuff. Well the narrow ledge had gone but now we had 1000m of descent to complete in just 1.5 miles (9 miles up 2 down!). Yes it was steep, yes it was rocky and yes it was loose. Most was rideable, but error would be nasty. So we rode all the steep slickrock but occasionally got off our bikes for the loose rock steps that were relentless one after another and as I say falling was not an option.

Nevertheless my grin factor was right back up there at an 8.5 (not as great as yesterday's stupendous ride) mainly because I was chock full of adrenalin from the trail guide description putting fear up me and now here I was managing to ride most of the descent and having not fallen 400feet of a cliff! Phew!

I feel a great sense of achievement that I have ridden the legendary Poison spider and Portal Trail.

Will headed back to Denver and I went and rode the slickrock at Bartlett Wash- a long dirt road drive with my 4WD on to get to this slickrock playground with only one other biker on it – wow! You don't have to follow the dashed lines here you can pick and ride your own line and just play and play and play, dropping ledges, riding round bowls etc etc. I even found a kinda half pipe to play in. The Sun was truly out now and the formations of the slickrock were so amazingly pictureesque- I just kept snapping! I got back just as the Thunderstorm started and got out of that dirt road double quick since the map said “impassable when wet”!

Camping in the wild again tonight- they really know how to do it well here!

Day 5- Moab- Hazzards-Porcupine Rim

Wow what a day!

After a night of listening to RV air conditioning units switching on and off then a 3am drive by my tent I decided this campground was not for me! So by 06:30am I was up and out of there, chased off by a cat trying to pinch my breakfast. At 7am, I was outside Moab Cyclery waiting for the shuttle to Hazzards County Trailhead. We left at 07:30 and by 08:30 I was at the front of 11 guys pedalling up a climb of a mile at 9500ft around 3000m altitude I guess – ow my lungs were screaming for air they felt as if someone had torn them out of my chest twisted them around a few times and stuffed them back down my throat.

But from then on it was downhill pretty much all day- for 30 miles! And the first bit of singletrack was sweet flowy dirt through woods and over rocks stunts that had been built up. It was fast as we dropped 500m altitude over 5km, twisting and turning. This riding is more like the North Downs when its dry- but longer and more downhill gradient- we're talking golden birdies for 5km, and dropping twice the height of Leith Hill!

I'd decided to try and start ahead of the other 10 riders so there was someone to find me and pick me up on the trail if I had a problem (especially as 4 of them were from the Seattle Fire Dept)- and being the only girl I feared being at the back and being left behind- sureley they will all catch me up eventually, but I was wrong- I was the one doing the catching up. I guess groups do too many chat, faff and photo stops.

I crossed over the road from Hazzards into Kokopelli double track, fast and very rutted by 4WD to be taken with caution, fantastic views open up over the valley below and the incredible rock formations- as seen in all those spaghetti western movies!

We skirted the rim for another 10km of singletrack on the UPS and then LPS trails- sometimes flowy but often times bouncing up and over rock slabs or down rock ledges, avoiding the rim edge where a fall means sudden death. This was tough as the view kept calling your eyes away from the trail and we all know that where you look you ride!

An hour or so of grin factor later I reached the top of Porcupine Rim where a Squirrel was about to rummage through a camelbak lying there. Turned out the Camelbak belonged to a guy from Denver named Will and for the rest of the day we rode together trying to contain our grins as our facial muscles started to hurt.

Porcupine skirts along the rim over rock drops and sandy singletrack mainly downhill but a couple of sharp ups. Eventually it turns away from the main rim to skirt the Colorado River some 100m or so above it I guess and here its narrow singletrack over rocky ledges, sometimes fast lulling you into speed then sharp edges where you could easily mess up and be over the edge. Keep eyes on trail- do not look at river view!

Miles and miles, 4 hours and smiles and smiles later we emerged down by the Colorado river through a tunnel and hit the tarmac for a 5 mile roll back to Moab. I had such a great ride and my legs and shoulders and hands are all aching with pleasure from it. I am shattered!

I highly recommend the $20 shuttle up to Hazzards County trailhead – the singletrack down for 30 miles and 4 hrs is worth every cent.

I've joined Will at a wild campsite up on Sand Flats road- not an RV in sight but just views of mountains and rock formations- its beyond awesome- I cannot believe my luck! (There are no facilities just a Pit toilet and a bench and fire pit by my tent),  I'll stay there for 2 nights before I head to St.George for the Grand Canyon tour. (Don't worry I'll grab a shower in the bike shop in town- yes they do that here).

So we're off to enjoy a beer by the campfire as reward for our tough day!

Day 4- Moab Slickrock

Slickrock city- up early and up Sand Flats Rd to slickrock trailhead. What an awesome moonscape that is. Terrain like you've never experienced- the first few miles I had huge grin factor as I rolled down the rolling rock and then managed to climb gradients in my granny ring out of the saddle and leaning right over the front of the bars- anywhere else and my back wheel would lose traction but here it just dug in and got me up stuff I never thought I'd make.

Now don't get me wrong I had not turned into super climber- there were still quite a few steeps I could not make it up- but they were super dooper steep! And there were techy descents to be had too, bouncing down rock faces into sand traps that were so loose and deep they stopped your front wheel dead and I almost went OTB in the first sand trap! That is some of the finest sand I've ever seen.

To top off all that fun the views were incredible- I could see for miles and miles and no civilisations to be seen anywhere just moonscape and weird towers of sandstone. What a great day! But by 7 miles into it my legs were growing weary of the tough out of saddle climbs and the grin was more of a grimace. By the turn back towards the trailhead at mile 10 I met a Puerto rican guy from California and some guys from Texas and we all had a great chat and rode back the last few climbs and swoopy downs together- great fun.

I was pretty exhausted but after a Turkey wrap and a berry banana smoothie (yum) at the Peace Tree juice bar, I decided to drive into Arches National Park and be a tourist. Wow the scenery here is just incredulous- how on earth has all that sandstone been laid down for millions of years and now eroded away to form arches and pillars and balancing rocks at the top of pillars. Every where you looked was a wonder to behold. I drove to the end of the parkway and hiked out to Double O arch- just a 2.5 mile hike which started really easily on almost disabled accessible trail for 1 mile then climbed up some narrow sandstone and became more of a scramble- what fun!

At the double O I climbed up for a photo then heading back got chatting to some nice guys from San Fran and then some Calgarians at the Partition Arch who took my photo and I returned the favour. Canadians are so friendly and so love the outdoors.

It was 6:30 when I got back to the car so I zoomed back to town and had a meal at Eddie McStiffs, joining the club so I could buy liquor cost me $4 but I also got a $4 voucher for my meal- what odd liquor laws they have in Utah- all this paperwork for nothing!

A storm is brewing as I prepare to retire to my tent. Tomorrow early start for a huge ride!

Day 3- Fruita Loma area to Moab

Well I did not sleep solidly but pretty well given jet lag and a thermarest! The sun was up by 6am and so was I. Chilling as the sunrise over the mountains crept up I ate breakfast and read my book. Then packed up camp and drove that dirt road back to town and out to the Loma area or McInnis Canyon to ride the trails there. I was out on Mary's loop by 9am, and dropped down onto Horsethief Bench immediately- I thought I could ride the rocky descent but I was wrong and I hike a biked down the huge steps of rocks and sand- who can ride this! I set off on the fast flowy singletrack, skipping off rock steps and bumping down rocky descents with a huge grin on my face. Just as the riding terrain got sweeter and sweeter the views of the Colorado river opened up- this place is just immense. Look at these canyon walls carved out by millions of years of glaciers and now an arid desert landscape- its so weird but so wonderful to behold. The terrain was one moment flowy fun skippy and the next a tough rock climbing challenge. At one point I rode at speed over the first root I had seen on the trail and then I thought “Hmm Claire you really ought to check those roots are not in fact snakes” and indeed that was a good thought because on the climb back out of Horsethief I nearly pushed my bike over a snake, but just avoided it in time and then gave a wide berth! No idea if it is poisonous but no wish to find out! From Horsethief I carried on Mary's loop which was prettty easy flowy singlterack with a couple of rrocky drops from time to time to skip off and keep it fun. At one point I passed a a rusty old caution signpost and indeed the trail was so narrow with a rocky overhang on one side and a sheer drop off into the canyon on the other- I rode it all but my focus was 100% on balance and momentum! From there I dropped into Steve's loop which again was fast flowy moderate rock drops and fantastic views for another 4 miles of fun. AmI getting boring? Well the ride certainly was not. Back up to Mary's taril I retraced it back to the start which was almost as fun as the way out but most of the best views were behind me. A quick gatorade refuel, setup the iPhone playlist and hit the road towards Moab. There is pretty much no town between Fruita na dMoab just desert and mountains and one long straight road. I had to sing along to my tunes to stop dropping off! Arriving in Moab is a culture shock for sure. It's the epitome of all american tackiness, loads of motel signs and one long main street of commercial advertising thrust down your throat. I guess the constand sun here takes its toll on signage as it all looks old and outdated and small town tacky! My GPS led me in circles to my campground eventually. I'd booked one off the beaten trcak so as not to be next to the Highway like the other but oh dear what a disappointment this was. Talk about Trailer Trash park! A line of old broken down Rvs all hooked up dow the middle of the park and opposite it a lone of fenced off tent pitches – all empty except the one waiting for me! Does everyone else know ebtter than me to camp here! What an anti-climax after last nights spot. Still there's a shower block and a laundry so maybe it'll suffice. Tent up quickly and I was outta there to go scout for food and ideas for what to try this week (apart from biking!) More later on that I guess.

Day 2 - Fruita Book Cliffs

Up early and off by 6am stopping at the store for some Honey Crullers and gatorade and a banana for breakfast. My Iphone played me tunes thru the car stereo to keep me company on the next 3hrs road trip to Grand Junction REI. There I stocked up with a rented tent and sleeping bag, plenty of Clif bars and shots and a new Gerber multi tool and something to start a fire. I will start my own camp fire this trip! I hadf to resist temptation to buy a stove and pots pans etc- I want to cook in the camp but actually it will be cheaper to eat out than buy all that.

Next stop was Fruita, heading up 18 road to the Book Cliffs Trail head. I got there by 12 noon and boy it was so damn hot! I hastily built my bike up while listening to the other riders tell of the trail conditions out there. Fortunately nothing was bent or bumped on my bike and it went together first time no tweaking so then I was off. First descent was fast and flowy heading into climb up Prime Cut to Joes Ridge past all the camp sites where I hoped to stay tonight- this looked a great campsite, even toilet pits!

Joes Ridge was even more magical than I recalled, you climb a little way on harpacked narrow singletrack and crest the brow of a hill to see strung out before you a narrow strip of singletrack marking the tip of a long ridge that swooped left and right and up and down as far as your eye could see. Oh how I want to video my run down this! This was fast, flowy, singletrack heaven but keep your eyes on the trail or one of two hazards will get you if you veer off either a catus or a sheer drop down off the ridge to either side. I guess its like riding a long skinny piece of North Shore – you MUST stay on the line or else...!

Phew what a great start, next I climbed back upPrime Cut and this time took Kessel's Run. I remember it from last time we stumbled upon it as it was not on the map and it snaked left and right from berm to berm. Imagine those berms on Golden birdies or the Yoghurt Pots/Parklife start but 10 times as many and 10 times as long- sweet sweee fun- this is what I came here for!

Not satisfied yet I came back up the whole of Prime Cut and decided to go for the double diamond black run of Zippety Do Da- at the trail head a very olde faded wooden sign hada the black dimanonds marked and “Experts Only”- apparently this one has some steeps and should not be ridden alone- oh well I'm here already and I'm not missing out!

This was like a repeat of Joes Ridge but higher and with a couple of really steep descents on ridges with drop offs to either side meaning you really really must stay on that singletrack strip Claire- you MUST! What an adrenalin buzz! Zippety chucked me out at the Trail head car park and I was donw for the day. 3Hrs and 25km of fun under the belt and a feeling of sun exposure, altitude and hunger inside me – time to hit town for food and supplies.

Stocked up in town with a full belly and snacks and beers for tonight and brekkie- it was back up the 4 mile dirt rod to my camp spot. I'm wild camping tonight- no fees, no showers just a pit for a toilet and a bencha nd grill plus a superb sunset view. All for free - this place is amazing! I read til 9pm and then as the darkness descended retired to my tent and was asleep in 10 mins! Only to wake at 2am- damn it.

Us Trip Day 1- Denver

After tearing around with M&D to buy a log cabin before I left, and having a panic over the fact I did not even know I had to complete an ESAT online to get permission to travel to the US now (I completed it 5 hrs before I flew and not the recommended 72hrs!), boarding the flight at Terminal 5 seemed a breeze in comparison to the build up.

10 hrs later and I was driving my Nissan Xterra out of Denver, Colorado towards the mountains as the sun was setting over them and turning to beautiful hues of orange then purple in a quintessential Rocky mountain panorama. I made it out to Idaho Springs and checked into the Columbine Inn motel room, falling asleep immediately. Only of course to wake up at 2am!

Whinlatter, Lake District

Whinlatter Blue Route, originally uploaded by kendyck1.

BH weekend in the Lake District- a combination that spells out RAIN.
Luckily we just got rained on overnight in our tents but clearly the Whinlatter Trails had a soaking.

We set out on the Red route North Loop first which is definitely the most interesting and challenging route. It starts all flowy through the woods with a couple of wet North shore options whish you can see Pete attempting then it climbs on exposed rocky singletrack with fantastic views of the quintessential Lake District postcard- hills and lakes and crags!

After some more fire road and singletrack cl;imbs the flowy stuff starts and some nice downhill singletrack with berms and skippy jumps some in the forest and some on exposed hillsides- all adding to the exhilaration. Despite the puddles it was not too muddy and flowed well.

We spotted the new blue route on the map so instead of climbing the South loop which is more like an exposed switchback climb and then a descent back down on something akin to a DH/BMX course with tabletops and berms, we decided to check out what was described as 10km of "flowy fast singletrack".

It was on the map but not all on the ground and really we took a sneak preview as the opening had been delayed. Only one section remains unbuilt but we were able to ride the wide stony singletrack and try the slabs of rocks on the swicthbacks that were interest features for more experienced riders. A section of DH style with big stoney berms and tabletops and jumps that you could roll was fun but a bit rocky still as its not worn in yet. Then we hit some really nice singletrack at the end with a couple of skippy jump features as per the photo.

OK the blue is tame but it was fun to flow with your ride and will no doubt get better with age. It's a great way to bring all levels of mountain biker into the are as anyone who rides a mountain bike and is reasonable fit can ride that stuff and have fun while riding with more advanced riders who can take on the challenges or ride at speed.

After that we had tea and cake in the fantastic cafe there which was packed- we sat in the sunshine with a slight post-ride chill down. Then went for a long walk along Ullswater Lake. An early dinner tonight (as last nights pub dinner arrived at 10pm!) and back to chill in the campsite.

Pinnacle Ridge, Lakes 09

Pinnacle Ridge, Lakes 09, originally uploaded by kendyck1.

Here I am shaking and huffing and puffing as we scrambled up and climbed up Pinnacle Ridge to St Sunday Crag this BH weekend.

Fortunately a sunny dry day and the rock was extremely dry and grippy but it sure was exposed and I was out of my comfort zone for sure.
It's supposedly a Grade 2 scramble with a Grade 3 crux climb (pictured). I have not done this sort if stuff for a long time but with Pete and Is's ropework I was in safe hands and I made it without a fall.
Indeed it felt like a great achievement!

My Hycoo for the day: -
"A huff and a puff,
Muscles explode into action,
The relief of achievement!"

After we reached the Summit we did a ridge walk over to Fairfield summit and then to Hart Crag and down Hartsop How and back to Patterdale.

My fitness seemed fine over the 8hrs we were out but all the descending must have hurt my left quad and I suffered for the next 3 days- hoplaong.